HOT Kimchi

The leaves are finally starting to turn, the humidity has passed, tans have faded and the air feels cool and crisp. It is now autumn in South Korea, my second favorite season in this country (beach season being my first). Gwangju has transformed into a colorful, fascinating city displayng not only its natural beauty but also its delectable cuisine, hosting the annual kimchi festival this past weekend.

Before arriving in Korea I had never really been introduced to kimchi, let alone tasted the fermented vegetable. And now, almost 2 years later, it has become a necessary stable in my diet. To be honest, I wasn't a big fan of kimchi my first few months here but I knew if I wanted to make any Korean friends or not be seen as an outcast (not like my curly hair didn't allow for that already) I had to at least try and enjoy the spicy cabbage.

Foreigner's say it takes about 6 months living in this country to actually start eating kimchi by choice and 6 months until you start to find Korean men or women attractive (if you didn't already). I did begin eating kimchi on the regular but as for the sexy Korean men, I never really grew a liking for the homogenous black hair, language barrier and jeans tighter than mine. After 6 months, to me, the kimchi was still hotter!

On Saturday, some friends and I went to check out the kimchi festival and see what all the hype was about. It ended up being a pretty fun and tasty experience. For 5,000 won (about $5) we were able to actually make our own kimchi and try different kinds of kimchi with various spices, vegetables and seafood from all over South Korea.

Gwangju is a city in Korea known for its cuisine, so the kimchi fest brought chefs, food critics and hungry guests from around Korea (and Asia) to taste the best of the best. It did however, also bring a handful of camera hungry, foreigner-crazed Korean people who at every opportunity wanted to interview us, photograph us or just stare from a distance. There were camera crews and journalists at the festival waiting for their turn to ask us questions like, "What brings you to Korea? Do you like kimchi? and, most importantly, Who is your favorite Korean pop group?" All the interviews ended with a peace sign picture and everyone left satisfied (and maybe somewhat annoyed).

Getting suited up to make some kimchi

  

After being interviewed for a highschool project, we got a group shot

Trick art exhibit

After the festival we headed to an art museum where they were hosting a trick art exhibit. We spent about an hour walking around, got some good shots and called it a day. Plus, we needed to refrigerate our newly made kimchi so it stays good for a few weeks. Most Koreans actually have a kimchi fridge specifically for... you guessed it... kimchi. This is a pretty unnecessary object for most foreigners or anyone for that matter who doesn't buy kimchi in bulk. A friend of mine performed with her band at the kimchi festival last year and were awarded a kimchi refrigerator for placing second. Kimchi is obviously a huge marketable commodity here and in a way, defines Korean culture and its spicy cuisine.

All in all, Saturday ended up being a day filled with art, culture and lots and lots of kimchi. Little did I know, Sunday would turn out to be a day filled with car races, Indian food and lots and lots of luck. Consequently, the next day began around noon when Adam and I got picked up by our friends Lokhee and Anthony, to begin the hour drive to the Formula 1 races. The cheapest ticket for this high profile race was $160... or in other words, waay out of our budget! So, we decided to just take a drive down to Mokpo (the town where the races were being held) and test our luck.

This is another reason why I love Korea so much. For the most part, people are pretty laid back and maybe a little too trusting (at least in my North American mind). For example, I took the train for the first time 2 weeks ago and not once did anyone check my ticket. If I pay a smaller fare on the bus or forget to pay my bar tab, Korean people will generally leave it up to you to fix the problem. They most likely, wouldn't say a thing!

So we arrived at the race with no money, low expectations and high hopes. We got there just as the races began and were huddled around the back gate near a forest trying to peek in between bushes and fence to get a glimpse of a vehicle. The piercing noise and black vile car fumes confirmed our close proximity to the track but this just made us even more eager to be a part of the electric crowd inside. Not even 15 minutes of us loitering around the facility, a worker from the races asked us whether or not we had our tickets. We responded honestly and to our amazement she signaled for us to go ahead in and watch the race. This was probably best case scenario and something that would ONLY happen in Korea. We sat with the other paying fans (suckers) and even witnessed a crash (one car got side-swiped by the other making a right turn on the track). At the end of the race we tried our luck once more and walked straight into the Grand Stadium where we got to see the top 3 drivers stand humbly on the podium and get awarded their prize. The whole experience was pretty unbelievable!

It was a little too noisy for the little ones..

In the Grand stadium after the races

I assumed that once the summer weather retired, it would go down with the exciting, fun-filled weekends we've been having. Thankfully, that has not been the case. Two weekends ago a large group of us foreigners attended the Global Gathering music festival in Seoul. I don't have much to say on the topic since my memory is a bit hazy but alls I know is I came home in one piece... sort of. The DJ's played well into the night and for once, we were surrounded by an eclectic group of Koreans. We partied with hipsters, wanna-be rock stars, hippies and every other lame high school cliche.

On the train to Seoul...starting early

Our music fest crew

October thus far has been pretty amazing! It's cooled down quite a bit but has made my nightly sleeps that much more comfortable. My apartments lack of air conditioning was something I hope to never endure again! The rest of the month should still be satisfying with halloween to look forward to, a trip to Taiwan comming up, and kimchi to last me a lifetime!

Write more soon!

Miss you all.

Signing off,

Gillian Teacha x

Thanks, But No Thanks

It's funny that after living in Korea for 1 year and 6 months, there are still new experiences and random occurrences which completely redefine what I thought I had understood about Korean culture. For example, there are some days I obviously get frustrated with the language barrier and other obstacles a Westerner might face in a foreign country. My selfish North American mind wants to blame "the other" even though I am living in THEIR country and can barely even speak the language.  There will be days, however where its hard to bare even going grocery shopping because god forbid they moved the bread section, my 15 minute shopping trip just turned into an evening out. I still have to hold my breath in a cab and am also unsure of why there are no garbage cans around the city, just piles of trash left on the corners of the sidewalk. They have no reason to cater to my needs but seeing English once in a while or anything remotely familiar, like a stop sign, is obviously comforting.

On the other hand, Koreans are probably the most generous and kind human beings I have ever met. They may not be able to speak English perfectly, or understand sarcasm, or follow traffic regulations, or serve authentic Western food... but they try their best. I found out recently from my Korean friend, that if you want to purchase something for a discounted price (even if there is no sale at the time) all you need to do is ask! You literally only need to say (in Korean) "Kiki Jusayeo" and your wish is their command. I didn't believe her at first so when I was out shopping last weekend, I tried it for myself. I'm not sure if the Korean storekeeper was just impressed with my Korean vocabulary, or if he just got a kick out of my request, but nevertheless, it worked and I saved $10 on a nice, new sweater. He was entertained by a naive, curly haired Westerner try to speak Korean, and I got a discount. We both left satisfied.

Another example proving Korean's stable generosity is seen at restaurants where typically Western customers are treated exceptionally well. Most Korean restaurants are equipped with coffee vending machines where, for 100 won (10 cents) you obtain a small paper cup filled with the sweetest, milkiest coffee you've ever tasted in your life. Koreans may be talented at manufacturing cars, or growing white rice but they can not make coffee. That is a fact. I sometimes drink this coffee as a dessert since its sweet taste compliments a hot and spicy Korean meal. Almost every time I decide to indulge in this liquid dessert, a restaurant worker will beat me to the machine, using his or her own pocket change to buy me a paper-cupped coffee. It's a small gesture but is nevertheless appreciated.

The other day I walked into a convenience store to grab the usual; a beer, some soju and a box of dried noodles (convenience stores differ greatly from what we know as convenient stores in North America). Anyways, as I approached the counter to pay, I noticed a shiny new box of cigarettes nicely placed on an elevated stand for decoration. Or so I thought. The storekeeper saw me eyeing the shiny object and asked me (in broken English and hand gestures) if I wanted one. 'Wanted a cigarette?' I thought. 'Just like that? For free?' I understand cigarettes in Korea are less than a fraction of the price for cigarettes at home but since I DO NOT SMOKE (mom & dad) I kindly declined. This package of cigarettes was for smokers to 'test out'. Kind of like those free food samples you can get at Costco! Although the only difference is this free sample can potentially lead to lung cancer and heart disease; a small sausage roll would probably just fuel your taste buds. I thought it was extremely odd to offer free samples of cigarettes but I've come to learn that Korea does things... differently. Thanks, but no thanks.

Convenient stores in Korea are found on virtually every street corner, beside every office building and across the street from every apartment complex. They are your booze stop, your TV dinner, your toiletry shop and are even used as a sit down bar. You can find almost anything inside these very convenient stores (including dried squid and rice cakes, catering to its own) and people can utilize them 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. They are extremely versatile, one day going in to buy a bottle of water and the next purchasing body wash, a toothbrush and canned tuna. But its dubious, eclectic ambience is what makes these stores so unique and completely different to Westernized convenience stores. Never would I expect a fun night out to include "mini stop drinking" but in Korea, convenient stores are common hubs for people to eat, drink and socialize.

I've come to notice something peculiar that would only occur while living in a foreign country. Back home, when you spend time grocery shopping, going to the cinema or whatever it may be, you don't typically arrive home with the shopkeeper or ticket stub breaker-person's number in your cell phone. Am I wrong? Situations like these seem to occur all too often in Korea and I think I know why.

A few days ago I went to HomePlus (equivalent to Wal Mart) hoping I could scan and email a few documents. This is not a typical sales inquiry, but they decided to make an exception, being the kind people that they are. They could have easily said no but instead, the manager from the top floor was called to assist me in my endeavor. After all the docs were scanned and sent out, the food manager and I were walking around the department store and I was using him as my personal shopping cart. He was excited to be practicing the little English he remembered from University and was eager to help me with anything else I needed. At the end of the day, numbers were exchanged (well on his part at least) and along with my eggs and orange juice, I made a new friend at the grocery store.

I remember when I first got to Korea and signed up for a phone contract, the woman behind the counter started questioning me (what I assumed to be routine questions for the contract) until I was asked if I like Korean food and if I would want to go out and eat with her sometime. I have a gut feeling that if I wasn't a visual minority whose native language happened to be English, these employees wouldn't be so inclined. But I don't mind. I'm here to teach English... even if I do end up working after hours.

What I find most interesting though and what I truly love about this country is that they are not trying to be something they're not. Korean's do things their own way and are not majorly influenced by their neighboring countries. They even have their own Korean style chopsticks, diner food, cheap soju and various explanations for Korean cuisine and medicine which they say help with arthritis or reduce stress. Apparently eating dog helps develop a man's stamina, just like kimchi cures cancer. Riight.

All that being said, it's true Korea may lack some veracity, garbage cans and stop signs but it is made up for in kindness and generosity.

"As beautiful as simplicity is, it can become a tradition that stands in the way of exploration".
-Laura Nyro

Here are some pics of the past few weeks and the end of summer:

Over Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving) some friends and I were invited to a ranch to go horsebackriding and spend the night

The Bamboo Forest in Damyang

Our last big camping trip of the summer

Write more soon!

Miss you all.

Signing off,

Gillian Teacha xx

Penis? Penis!

I have to say, this summer has probably been the most exciting, ludicrous summer I've ever experienced in my life. In the past 2 months I've travelled to new countries, visited new cities around Korea, went on a 4 day road trip to the East coast and covered my entire body in mud at a festival. I did all of this and still (physically) managed to make it to work monday morning.

Mudfest!

Mud wrestling at mudfest. Things got VERY messy!

Spent the weekend in Busan and started drinking/dancing with an Ajuma (old Korean drunk woman)

At the beach in Busan, the waves were so massive we werent allowed in the water

Last weekend was another one of Korea's long weekends that us foreigners don't question just smile and happily accept. My good friend Lokhee and her husband invited Adam and I on a 3 night, 4 day road trip down the east coast of Korea. I haven't had many opportunities to drive in a car with friends. The bus system in Korea is so comfortable and efficient, most people use buses as their primary mode of transportation. Nevertheless, it's always fun planning a road trip and living in a foreign country makes it more challenging to figure out directions and abide by Korean traffic regulations (or lack of).

Consequently, we realized it is nearly impossible to get a speeding ticket in Korea. You seriously have to go out of your way to get pulled over and Korean law enforcement make it pretty difficult. About every couple of miles there is a yellow sign on the side of the highway warning drivers they are approaching the next speeding camera. And if for some reason you happen to miss the luminous signal, another sign exposes itself upon arrival at the surveyed area. Drivers essentially slow down for the next minute or until their license can no longer be seen by big brother. So basically, if you ever do get a speeding ticket in Korea, you more than likely deserved it!

The trip took 7 hours to drive from Gwangju but the sights were beautiful along the way. We packed our child sized tents into the trunk of their car, along with some mekju (beer), wine and various other necessities and headed off to beach number one. We camped on 2 different beaches but managed to visit 4 altogether; each one unique and beautiful in its own way.

One common trend I've noticed about Korean beaches is that Korean people love their umbrellas, tubes and banana boats. Simply relaxing on a beach and getting some sun is not on their itineraries. However, as the sun descended, beach goers packed their things and left an empty beach for the 4 of us to enjoy.

This was only the second time I've travelled with a Korean friend around Korea and I forgot how much of a treat it is! We were able to do things incomprehensible to us foreigners who don't speak the language. Mostly simple things like ordering food, asking for directions and easily finding our way around a Korean grocery store. Lokhee even ordered us pizza and chicken to the beach when the sun was shining and we were too lazy to get off our lazy asses. Her and Anthony brought along a small grill so we were able to cook an authentic Korean dinner consisting of pork, lettuce leaves, garlic, rice and bean paste. It was delicious!

So after 3 days of sleeping on the sand and snorkeling around the east sea, we were all feeling pretty stiff. That being said, we decided it was fitting to visit an outdoor museum called Love Land or better known as Penis Park. This was probably the most bizarre park I've ever stepped foot on and I would highly recommend it for some awkward moments and a good laugh. What I found most humorous about this penis park other than the array of penises, is its blatant contradiction to Korean culture. Sex is very taboo in Asia, so for Koreans to exploit it in a family oriented environment seems pretty hilarious if you ask me. We walked by families and children who were old enough to know exactly what was going on and that's just awkward for everyone! Family outings are always a nice idea but seriously, is it really necessary to go to a penis park with your grandmother, uncle and cousin? I'm sure there are other ways to spend quality time with your family that doesn't involve dodging ceramic cocks in a park. I mean, can you even imagine what a family photo shoot would sound like?

Mother: Okay sweetheart, get infront of the large penis for a picture.
Distressed child: Which one?
Mother: The big black one one.
Distressed child: This one?
Mother: No, no the circumsized one! Hmm.. move a little to the side just under the right testicle!
Distressed child: Better?
Mother: Perfect.

We could have been a lot more daring/inappropriate with the pictures, but thought we'd keep it somewhat classy. After 3 days of perfect weather and a hilarious afternoon in a penis park, it was hard to leave. We all sat, erect in the car trying not to fall asleep after very minimal sleep. We attempted to penetrate the mystery of this penis park and fathom its obscure existence but I suppose some things are better left limp or untouched. hehe. Okay I'm done.

Beginning our road trip!

They built a ship/hotel on a mountain and it became a big tourist spot

This was our view each morning!

"Dream as if you'll live forever. Live as if you'll die today" - James Deam

Write more soon!

Signing off,

Gillian Teacha

No Touting: Singapore and Malaysia

I can't believe how fast time is going by. I don't know if it has anything to do with getting older or the fact that we live a contracted life out here, but something has got to change. And I don't think I'll be getting any younger!

Last Sunday I returned back to Korea after our 9 day vacation to beautiful Singapore and Malaysia. These were 2 countries we essentially picked out of a hat but I'm so happy we did. All I ever heard about Singapore was its obscure rules and regulations. There are more things you can't do in that country than you can. Some of these laws are so ridiculous I was almost tempted to test one out just to say I got arrested for blowing a bubble! Gum just doesn't exist in Singapore. They don't chew, blow it or sell it.

After Katie and I treated ourselves to a delicious western style sub sandwich, we began devouring it on our metro ride to the airport... until we noticed the $500 fine we could be imprisoned for. The sub was good. But not THAT good!

I also found it pretty hilarious seeing signs which covered the streets that read, "no touting". Korea doesn't even have stop signs, let alone signs that order silence and discipline.

What's interesting though is that all of these laws are strictly followed by its citizens and somehow, it all works. Singapore has got to be the cleanest, most efficient and organized country I've ever been to. What I loved the most about this country is that it is so multicultural and truly caters to each ethnic group genuinely. From shopping in china town to eating dinner in little India it honestly felt like we were magically teleported to the country of origin. We embraced each culture head on and I've never eaten a more eclectic mix of foods in my life! In Korea, for example, if I feel like eating Italian I must be aware that my penne pasta is being prepared by a Korean chef (who has most likely never left the country) and will thus have a korean twist to it; perhaps a side of kimchi or pieces of sweet corn mixed in. Singapore differed greatly in that our food of choice was cooked by an authentic native chef and its taste was commendable (but came with a price).

In each small suburb we were a visual minority which made the experience almost overwhelming. Being a minority in a foreign country isn't something I'm unfamiliar with. What was out of the ordinary, however was that all these different ethnicities and cultures could bond together through their native language; English. When we first arrived to Singapore and noticed all the public transportation signs were written in English I was a little surprised but it wasn't until the subway announcements that I realized, I was again in an English speaking country.

I almost forgot how much easier day to day life is when storekeepers, taxi drivers and the general public can all communicate in the same language as you. Part of me does enjoy the challenge that living in a foreign country poses, but at least 50% of the time I'm pulling out my hair trying to order food at a restaurant or crossing my fingers the taxi driver drops me off at my desired location. All in all, a great time was had in Singapore even if tequila shots were $12 a piece!

As our wallets got lighter and the risk of breaking a law higher, we decided it was time to head next door to gorgeous Malaysia. Similar to Singapore, I hadn't heard much about Malaysia only that it was a Muslim country and that there were lots of naughty, hungry monkeys lying around. We took a six hour bus ride from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur and checked into a lovely hostel right in the middle of china town. Consequently, our first dinner consisted of lemon chicken, chow mein, chinese broccoli and everything else greasy and delicious.

Our first full day in Malaysia was filled with feeding, riding and bathing elephants and visiting an old Mosque over taken by wild monkeys. There were hundreds of monkeys that ran loose amidst the temple grounds. We were warned not to bring any food or drinks with us for obvious reasons. I even removed my sunglasses due to my last experience with monkeys in Asia.

We had a fun night out in Kuala Lumpur before heading to a small village called Melaka where we would stay for 2 nights. Melaka is a historical town just outside KL made up of beautiful old temples, churches and cultural centers. The citizens want to maintain its historic ambience so there are no skyscrapers, nightclubs or even air conditioning. It was definitely a unique place to visit and I'd recommend it for those travelling to Malaysia. The majority of Malayan citizens are Muslim and are literally covered up head to toe. Going from a capital city to a small town, the religious undertones were especially apparent and temples were much more abundant. Subsequently, the 3 of us felt a little scandalous tanning in bikinis on an empty beach directly across from a Mosque.

So after offending a few religious Malayans, we agreed it was time to leave Malaysia and head back to Singapore where we would eventually be flying home from. It only hit me recently that Korea really does feel like home. Although I did enjoy the variety of food in Singapore and the unique wildlife in Malaysia, I honestly missed Koreas laid back mentality, their 24 hour spas, the hilarious drunk cab drivers and consequently their cheap soju. When we arrived back to Gwangju Sunday night, the air was just as humid, the traffic was just as chaotic and English was still nowhere to be found. It's nice to be home.

"Everyone starts off as stranger, Ted. It's where we end up that counts"- Film: Four Rooms

Write more soon.

Signing off,

Gillian Teacha xx