Monday, September 26, 2011

Thanks, But No Thanks

It's funny that after living in Korea for 1 year and 6 months, there are still new experiences and random occurrences which completely redefine what I thought I had understood about Korean culture. For example, there are some days I obviously get frustrated with the language barrier and other obstacles a Westerner might face in a foreign country. My selfish North American mind wants to blame "the other" even though I am living in THEIR country and can barely even speak the language.  There will be days, however where its hard to bare even going grocery shopping because god forbid they moved the bread section, my 15 minute shopping trip just turned into an evening out. I still have to hold my breath in a cab and am also unsure of why there are no garbage cans around the city, just piles of trash left on the corners of the sidewalk. They have no reason to cater to my needs but seeing English once in a while or anything remotely familiar, like a stop sign, is obviously comforting.

On the other hand, Koreans are probably the most generous and kind human beings I have ever met. They may not be able to speak English perfectly, or understand sarcasm, or follow traffic regulations, or serve authentic Western food... but they try their best. I found out recently from my Korean friend, that if you want to purchase something for a discounted price (even if there is no sale at the time) all you need to do is ask! You literally only need to say (in Korean) "Kiki Jusayeo" and your wish is their command. I didn't believe her at first so when I was out shopping last weekend, I tried it for myself. I'm not sure if the Korean storekeeper was just impressed with my Korean vocabulary, or if he just got a kick out of my request, but nevertheless, it worked and I saved $10 on a nice, new sweater. He was entertained by a naive, curly haired Westerner try to speak Korean, and I got a discount. We both left satisfied.

Another example proving Korean's stable generosity is seen at restaurants where typically Western customers are treated exceptionally well. Most Korean restaurants are equipped with coffee vending machines where, for 100 won (10 cents) you obtain a small paper cup filled with the sweetest, milkiest coffee you've ever tasted in your life. Koreans may be talented at manufacturing cars, or growing white rice but they can not make coffee. That is a fact. I sometimes drink this coffee as a dessert since its sweet taste compliments a hot and spicy Korean meal. Almost every time I decide to indulge in this liquid dessert, a restaurant worker will beat me to the machine, using his or her own pocket change to buy me a paper-cupped coffee. It's a small gesture but is nevertheless appreciated.

The other day I walked into a convenience store to grab the usual; a beer, some soju and a box of dried noodles (convenience stores differ greatly from what we know as convenient stores in North America). Anyways, as I approached the counter to pay, I noticed a shiny new box of cigarettes nicely placed on an elevated stand for decoration. Or so I thought. The storekeeper saw me eyeing the shiny object and asked me (in broken English and hand gestures) if I wanted one. 'Wanted a cigarette?' I thought. 'Just like that? For free?' I understand cigarettes in Korea are less than a fraction of the price for cigarettes at home but since I DO NOT SMOKE (mom & dad) I kindly declined. This package of cigarettes was for smokers to 'test out'. Kind of like those free food samples you can get at Costco! Although the only difference is this free sample can potentially lead to lung cancer and heart disease; a small sausage roll would probably just fuel your taste buds. I thought it was extremely odd to offer free samples of cigarettes but I've come to learn that Korea does things... differently. Thanks, but no thanks.

Convenient stores in Korea are found on virtually every street corner, beside every office building and across the street from every apartment complex. They are your booze stop, your TV dinner, your toiletry shop and are even used as a sit down bar. You can find almost anything inside these very convenient stores (including dried squid and rice cakes, catering to its own) and people can utilize them 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. They are extremely versatile, one day going in to buy a bottle of water and the next purchasing body wash, a toothbrush and canned tuna. But its dubious, eclectic ambience is what makes these stores so unique and completely different to Westernized convenience stores. Never would I expect a fun night out to include "mini stop drinking" but in Korea, convenient stores are common hubs for people to eat, drink and socialize.

I've come to notice something peculiar that would only occur while living in a foreign country. Back home, when you spend time grocery shopping, going to the cinema or whatever it may be, you don't typically arrive home with the shopkeeper or ticket stub breaker-person's number in your cell phone. Am I wrong? Situations like these seem to occur all too often in Korea and I think I know why.

A few days ago I went to HomePlus (equivalent to Wal Mart) hoping I could scan and email a few documents. This is not a typical sales inquiry, but they decided to make an exception, being the kind people that they are. They could have easily said no but instead, the manager from the top floor was called to assist me in my endeavor. After all the docs were scanned and sent out, the food manager and I were walking around the department store and I was using him as my personal shopping cart. He was excited to be practicing the little English he remembered from University and was eager to help me with anything else I needed. At the end of the day, numbers were exchanged (well on his part at least) and along with my eggs and orange juice, I made a new friend at the grocery store.

I remember when I first got to Korea and signed up for a phone contract, the woman behind the counter started questioning me (what I assumed to be routine questions for the contract) until I was asked if I like Korean food and if I would want to go out and eat with her sometime. I have a gut feeling that if I wasn't a visual minority whose native language happened to be English, these employees wouldn't be so inclined. But I don't mind. I'm here to teach English... even if I do end up working after hours.

What I find most interesting though and what I truly love about this country is that they are not trying to be something they're not. Korean's do things their own way and are not majorly influenced by their neighboring countries. They even have their own Korean style chopsticks, diner food, cheap soju and various explanations for Korean cuisine and medicine which they say help with arthritis or reduce stress. Apparently eating dog helps develop a man's stamina, just like kimchi cures cancer. Riight.

All that being said, it's true Korea may lack some veracity, garbage cans and stop signs but it is made up for in kindness and generosity.

"As beautiful as simplicity is, it can become a tradition that stands in the way of exploration".
-Laura Nyro

Here are some pics of the past few weeks and the end of summer:

Over Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving) some friends and I were invited to a ranch to go horsebackriding and spend the night


The Bamboo Forest in Damyang


Our last big camping trip of the summer




Write more soon!

Miss you all.

Signing off,

Gillian Teacha xx